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Which tank should I choose?

I am upgrading from a 37g to one of these Petsmart tanks.
My fish are still very small but this is what I have:
1 X blood parrot
2 X angelfish
8 X series tetras

Which of these tanks would be the best choice for what I have? My wall space is limited to 40" otherwise I would go bigger.

(1) National Geographic
46 gallon boqfront
LED
36" X 16 X 20

(2) Aqueon
65 gallon
Fluoresant
36.4 X 18.4 X 25

Also what filter would be best?

Thanks

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Comments

From my experience, and what I've learned from other fish-keepers, two things you can never have enough of--no-matter how small your stock size--is gallons per inch of stock or filtration. In-fact: The "Hard-&-Fast" rules are to have 10g for every inch of stock, and double the filtration need for the tank's capacity.

 

Now, I know that seems rather much... but think about it: You WANT these creatures--which you have grown fond of & close to--to be happy & healthy, which goes hand-in-hand... So naturally, you want them to be as comfortable as possible. And seeing how you have Angelfish in the community, a taller tank would be preferred because of their body-shape & how they tend to swim within the upper-part of the tank. (Top-swimmers) This will give you BP more room to swim in the middle section--where BPs tend to swim--without fear of bumping into your Angels, which tend to be sensitive to and harsh conditions of their situation. 

 

Also, as to what type & brand of filtration units to be using, I find you can't go wrong with one that allows your choice of media & arrangement. Aqua-Clear HOBs or API/Filtstar canisters--if you have the space for at-least one XL canister--are the top choices for this way to go. However, if you have the room for more than one canister, and you feel you can handle the maintenance of something bigger & more complex that offers more options, then a sump-type would be the way to go. These are the choice of the top hobbist fish-keepers, and there are options for many designs to fit you needs. Just remember: Filtration is nothing without waterflow, so having a pump that provides enough circulation per hour is critical as part of your setup. You can read more about this in the post about my personal experince with filtration & tank maintenance.

 

Good-luck!

Thank you.  I will go for the biggest tank possible and I will do research on the proper filtration.  I have  both these filters going on my 37g and the water and substract is crystal clear and when I vacuum once a week there is hardly any dirt sucked up except for the filters which I rinse out with siphoned tank water.  But I dont think I can keep these filters on a bigger tank and especially when my babies grow to full size.  Right now I siphon into buckets and its hard work so I'm also considering one of those siphons that connects to a sink.  So by having one of those canisters that go underneath the cabinet, will that be easier to maintain?

Gald to hear that the tank's substrate is so clean... I guess whatever bio-media you have in the filters--or sponges you may have on their intakes--is doing the brunt of the work controlling ammonia. BTW: How well oxygenated is you water? On my 40-gal, I kept four long bubbler wands along the base of the other walls--the ones that didn't face forward--each fed by the output of the two large dual-outlet pumps I used.

As for using one of those sink attachment siphon/filling systems, I'm a bit in question of them... Namely, does the tap-water need to be kept flowing while the siphon is drawing from the tank, even after the tank-water has reached to siphon's outlet? This is why I stuck with my method, which allowed the fresh/clean/new water to be introduced without disturbing the tank, and the waste-water to be easily removed & disposed of:

After some experimentation, I setup the filtration system so all the pumps ivolved were on a switched heavy-duty surge-protector, with a separate one for the tank heaters. I also custom-made hoses from clear poly-vinyl hose w/internal nylon braiding, with plastic garden-hose connections carefully placed in-line as "breaks" for ease of all servicing that may be necessary. Fitting the hoseends was a bit difficult, but I found that softening the cut end of the hose by carefully holding it in a pot of boiling water--for a few minutes--made it easier... followed by immediate immersion in cold water to make it contract, to help seal it to the attachment & make it easier to handle while installing the included locking-collar. BTW: I used threaded attachment-ends, as "quick-connects" tend to be difficult to move a cleaning-brush through.

Once that part was done, I made a length of braided clear hose as a drain to run out the window--the tank & filter were already very close to it--that I attached to a heavy-duty hose "Y" with built-in control-valves upon the filtration system's outlet. At my fresh-water source, I replaced the airator on the faucet-head with a quick-connect fitting, which I used with a "collapsible" hose with a heavy-duty valve/coupler on the end. 

As the system ran, I'd keep one of the valves in the "Y" open & the other shut. Whenever it came time to change the tank-water, I'd first attach the collapsible hose to the sink faucet, then run water through it into said sink as I carefully adjusted the water's temperature... make it comfortable for the fish & prevent thermal shock. Once the ideal temperature is reached, I close the connector/valve at the other end & go switch-off the tank-heater--to prevent damage to it. I then place the drainage hose out the window--closing it enough to hold the hose in-place--and opening & closing the "Y"'s valve respectively, I drain the level in the tank until it reaches the 50% mark, and then switch-off the filtration pump(s), then respectively opening/closing the "Y"'s said valves again. Then I lead the filling hose to the tank, detach the water-return hose at the "break" I have in it's run over the tank... where it hangs by a stick-on hook I attached to the cabinet... followed by attaching the frash-water hose to the end entering the tank, a opening the valve on the connector. 

As the tank filled, I'd add whatever chemicals needed to treat the water--in amounts measured for the tank's full-capacity, respectively. Once the tank was filled, I'd shut-off the filling-hose at the connector/valve, undo it from the tank's return hose & reattach the filtration-system's return. 

You can guess the rest, I'm sure... and leave you with a bit of advice: Always keep you canister or sump filters set in a fairly-deep plastic tub with handles for safety, because they can spill a bit while moved or worked with--even when you are careful--and you never know when a leak may occur.

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