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how often do you clean your tank

how often do you clean your tank, i am planning to buy a 100g tank and its not a easy job for me to clean them often as i need good lot of water which is not contaminated r chlorinated so i got to be careful in filling and im planning for small stone gravel for the tank....
is it necessary to completely recycle the tank a 25% water change on a regular basics may be once in 3 weeks r so, will this be sufficient and may be a complete recycle once in a year ll this help??

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"is it necessary to completely recycle the tank a 25% water change on a regular basics may be once in 3 weeks r so, will this be sufficient "

There is not a single individual here (or anywhere else on Earth) who can answer those questions. Respondents may inform you as to what works for them, but that information is absolutely useless to you. If you tell us what you're going to stock the tank with, and how much and often you feed, some of us may be able to give you a ballpark assessment of your potential bio load, which is also useless to you.

First things first: Water changes are done for the sole purpose of diluting nitrate, the end result of the nitrification cycle, in your aquarium. There is never a need to just replace all of your water as routine annual maintenance. This is a drastic step we usually reserve for when something goes terribly wrong (contaminant or pathogen, etc).

Now, here is how to find the answer to the questions of how much and how often (skip to step 2 if you plan to move a sufficient amount of existing, colonized media to your 100 gallon aquarium): Step 1) Stock your aquarium with lesser fish and wait until you achieve zero PPM ammonia and zero PPM nitrite. That means the nitrification cycle has completed (about 5-6 weeks) and you may begin gradually adding display fish and live plants if you so choose. Leave the lesser fish for future quarantine procedures. Step 2) Once the nitrification cycle is complete and your tank is stocked, check water parameters weekly for a month until you have determined that no ammonia or nitrite register. Record your nitrate level weekly, and do 20-25% water changes as needed to maintain 20 PPM or less. After 30 days, you will have a good idea of how much ammonia/nitrite are being generated and converted into nitrate, and how often and how robustly you will need to address the matter.

There is no other way to obtain this information as every aquarium/aquarist is different. I have aquariums that require weekly 25% changes, and one just like them that requires no water changes-ever (though I still do them) due to the fish-to-plants ratio in that tank.

I should point out that it is possible to cycle the tank without using sacrificial, lesser fish. The method is more humane but does not afford you future quarantine assistants. Contact me directly for more information about fishless cycling or quarantine procedures.

What he said.

I typically do weekly 25-50% changes on all my tanks. If you are keeping Blood Parrot which I would assume you are since you are posting here, you need to be doing frequent water changes because they are messy fish. Unless you only have one Blood Parrot and nothing else in the 100 gallon tank then you are gonna have to do more than 25% every 3 weeks.

What do you plan on keeping in the tank?

Most of us have unsuitable water, which we are forced to modify. Water conditioner is part of the hobby for the majority of aquarists. I even use it in my processed rain water, which contains no chlorine or chloramine at all, just to safeguard against possible heavy metals.

Water changes need not be difficult. Here's how I manage my larger tanks:

I have a fountain pump attached to vinyl tubing with a valve on the discharge end. I place the pump in the tank and pump 25% of the water out to waste. Then I set my sink faucet to the proper temperature and stop up the basin. I then use the same pump to pump water out of the basin and into a dedicated trashcan (second hand stores sell suitable plastic totes for pennies on the dollar) which contains the proper amount of water conditioner. When I have enough water in my trashcan, I move the pump to the trashcan and put the discharge end in the aquarium. Minutes later the process is complete. Rarely do I spill a drop and no physical exertion is required.

You on Monsterfishkeepers.com?

Me? No. Do I remind you of someone? Are you on Monsterfishkeepers.com? I've read a thread there on a large build because one of the tanks is for sale here locally. That's my sole experience with the site.

Nah I was just curious if you were on there since you seem to know what you are talking about. Yes I am on there.

That is such a fantastic idea.  I've been lugging buchets up and down the stairs.  Water changes are a lot of work.  (were a lot of work).  Thanks for posting!

Glad to be of help. One of my tanks is convenient to a bathtub, so I do the same thing without the trashcan for water changes on that aquarium.  If you have a tub near your upstairs/downstairs tank, just use it but rinse it well first to eliminate any chemicals.

thanks a lot mates.. for now i am planning only parrot fish in the tank i have one pair in a small tank which i am selling and buying this 100g tank and may be i will add 2 more pairs of parrot fish in it, thats it for now. may be later i can introduces someone who could get along with my parrot. and i am from India i dont find ppl here are doing soo much test on their water quality parameters even i dont find any LFS doing such things so i am not clear as how i need to do these things.
Thanks again :)

The nitrification cycle is monitored with a freshwater master test kit such as this one, which does ship worldwide according to the listing:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit-4-test-all-...

I use API test kits exclusively, but there are many good brands.

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